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What visit

Syracuse was the only ancient city to rival Athens and that should be enough to convince you to pack your bags! 
The great Greek philosopher Platone visited it three times because he considered it the right city to found his ideal Republic. Also linked to Greece is the myth of Arethusa, a Greek nymph transformed by Artemis into the source of Ortigia. The extraordinary temple was dedicated to Artemis and is now incorporated and still visible in the walls of the Cathedral. Greek myth and Christian religion are the foundations of Syracuse: the first Western Christian church was founded here and Saint Paul, en route to Rome, stopped in Syracuse for three days. One of Italy's most beloved saints, Saint Lucia, was born and martyred in Syracuse, as told by Caravaggio's masterpiece in the church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. Myth, religion but also science, because Archimedes, the extraordinary inventor, was born in Syracuse and rests in the (alleged) tomb in the Archaeological Park of Neapolis. One of the most important archaeological complexes in the world: the theatre, amphitheater and altar of Gerone alone deserve a visit to Syracuse. This short itinerary should be enough to justify a trip to this wonderful city in southern Sicily, but let's also add that there is a splendid sea and excellent gastronomy, without forgetting the mild climate almost all year round. In short, there is plenty to fill 2-3 days with art, food and spirituality!


Ortygia 1 )

The approximately 4,000 residents of Ortigia are certainly aware of the good fortune of being able to live on this small island just over a kilometer large which they call U' Scogghiu (the rock). The oldest part of Syracuse is considered one of the most beautiful inhabited islands in the world, even if it is not really an island. In fact it is connected to the mainland by the Umbertino bridge and the Santa Lucia bridge. Ortygia From here on it is all a succession of temples, churches, palaces, fountains and mythical places. A promenade full of restaurants, bars and various clubs offers shelter during the day and enlivens the nights of Ortigia, especially in summer. After crossing the bridge, you immediately come across the Temple of Apollo, the oldest in Sicily. Unfortunately not much remains because over the centuries it has been used as a mosque and then as a Christian church. A little further on, the Fountain of Diana (Artemis), which tells the myth of the Nymph Aretusa transformed into a fountain by the Goddess herself. The Fonte Aretusa, symbol of Ortigia and sung by poets and writers over the centuries, is linked to this myth. Aretusa was a Greek nymph loved by Alpheus but did not want to be with him: she therefore asked Artemis to help her and this transformed her into the source of Ortigia. Alpheus, in order not to be separated from her, asked the gods to transform him into a river so as to live forever in the embrace of his nymph. The source is a large pool of water in which papyrus has always grown, the only place in Europe. The two most important monuments of Ortigia are the Duomo and the Castello Maniace which we talk about in points 2 and 5. 


The Cathedral and the square of Ortigia 2 )

If you have ever seen a photo of Ortigia it probably portrays the facade of the Duomo and the surrounding square. The Cathedral of Syracuse is a truly extraordinary construction for several reasons: first, it stands in the same place where all the religions that passed through Syracuse had their cult. It was a Ionian, Sicilian, then Doric temple dedicated to Athena, then Roman, a mosque and finally the first Norman-style Christian church in Europe. The Cathedral and the square of Ortigia Finally, after the earthquake of 1693, the facade and the interior were partially rebuilt in Baroque and Rococo style. Of the Doric era remain 9 columns of the temple of Athena today incorporated in the structure but perfectly visible. The facade is considered the highest expression of Syracusan Baroque while the interior is still entirely Norman with the remains of the old Doric temple. The original writing that defines "The church of Syracuse is the first daughter of St. Peter and second after the church of Antioch dedicated to Christ" is clearly visible. Do not miss the chapels dedicated to Saint Lucia and the Byzantine Crucifix. The Cathedral is perfectly integrated into the square that bears the same name: the harmony between the Cathedral and the palaces make it one of the most beautiful Baroque complexes in Italy. Among the facades and courtyards, all worthy of attention, do not miss the courtyard of Palazzo Beneventano dal Bosco which hosted King Ferdinand I of the Two Sicilies and the English admiral Horatio Nelson in the fight against Napoleon. In the nearby Palazzo Senatorio, now the Town Hall, an original Baroque state carriage is on display. From via Minerva, next to the Duomo, you can access the Artemisium (9-12, ticket €5), an unfinished Ionic temple dedicated to the goddess Artemis. The temple, 59 meters long and 25 meters wide, was built on the example of the famous temple of Artemis in Ephesus, Turkey. Also not to be missed is the nearby "Giardino di Artemis" with flowers and plants.


Santa Lucia alla Badia and Caravaggio 3)

A little further on from the Cathedral of Ortigia is the small church of Santa Lucia alla Badia, almost anonymous when compared with the majesty and beauty of the Cathedral. Even the interior is bare, in monastic style, the result of many renovations that have taken place over the centuries. Yet the small church has been in the heart of the Syracusans for centuries because Saint Lucia was born in Syracuse where she was martyred in 304. Santa Lucia alla Badia and Caravaggio In the catacombs of the church there is her first niche, even if her remains were later taken to the sanctuary dedicated to her in Venice. In 1646 the invocations to the saint put an end to the famine that oppressed Syracuse: according to popular devotion a miracle allowed the arrival of two ships loaded with cereals in the port of Ortigia. The church of Santa Lucia alla Badia is famous for the presence of the last canvas painted by Caravaggio which represents the burial of Saint Lucia. Returning from Malta, seeking protection from being accused of being a murderer, Caravaggio painted this picture which was to be displayed on the church altar. The viewer's point of view is at ground level, right where the body of the saint lies while the two burials on the right are digging the grave. It was an extraordinary innovation because until then all the painters had portrayed the martyrdom of the saint of Syracuse and never her burial. 


The Archaeological Park of Neapolis 4)

The Archaeological Park of Syracuse was saved from the urban havoc that attacked the Sicilian city in the past decades. The Greek Theatre, the Amphitheater, the Ear of Dionysius and the Temple of Hiero and the Tomb of Archimedes are one of the most important archaeological remains in Europe: these monuments are defended by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The Archaeological Park of Neapolis The Roman Theater has kept intact its shape carved into the rock which defended it from material plundering. It could hold thousands of spectators: here Aeschylus performed I Persiani e le Etnee for the first time. A tradition that still lasts today because the theater is used every summer for plays and shows. The 140-metre Amphitheater experienced a different fate: a part of the building was removed by the Spaniards who used the stones to build the defense ramparts of Ortigia. As in all other Roman amphitheaters, shows with gladiators and beasts were held here. Do not miss a visit to the latomie in the park, large fissures in the rock resulting from the extraction of stones for construction. The largest latomia is that of Paradise in which there is the famous Ear of Dionysius. It was defined in this way by Caravaggio because it has the shape of a large auricle and because, according to legend, the tyrant of Syracuse Dionysius I used the extraordinary acoustic characteristics of this place to listen to the speeches of the prisoners he kept here from afar. Also not to be missed is a visit to the presumed Tomb of Archimedes and the suggestive Via dei Sepolcri.


Castello Maniace and seafront of Syracuse 5)

A walk in Ortigia inevitably leads to the Maniace Castle passing through the wonderful Alfeo promenade, pedestrian, scenic but also very crowded in the summer months. Maniace Castle and seafront Along this narrow street that once housed only fishermen's houses, today there are plenty of bars and restaurants just a few meters from the sea. This is the side of Ortigia from which you can see the sunset, so truly wonderful sceneries open up in the evening. At the end of the seafront is the Castello Maniace which takes its name from the Byzantine leader who conquered Syracuse in 1038. In reality, the Castle as we see it today has the structure wanted by Frederick II who wanted it to defend Syracuse: it has a square base with four cylindrical towers on the sides. Over the centuries it has hosted Sicilian kings and queens, the Queen's Chamber but it was also a prison, powder magazine and barracks of the Italian Army. Today it is possible to visit what remains of the original structure modified over the centuries. Do not miss a visit to the magnificent hall with Gothic pillars. 


The Catacombs of San Giovanni and the Crypt of San Marciano 6) 

The Catacombs of San Giovanni with the church of the same name are one of the most fascinating monuments in Syracuse, even if not all tourists include them in their itinerary. We are near the Archaeological Park of Neapolis (see point 4) and here stands an open-air basilica (without a roof) which hides one of the oldest places in Syracuse in the basement: the Greek aqueduct which the Romans then transformed into catacombs to house individual deceased or family graves. The Catacombs of San Giovanni and the Crypt of San Marciano The linearity of the structure is striking with a long underground (Decumanus Maximus) and 10 side streets (Cardines) which lead to four circular (rotunda) chapels, actually cisterns: they are called Antiochia, Marina, Adelphia and Sarcofaghi. The Marina rotunda was the tomb of Bishop Syracuse and is recognizable by the Christian symbols of the boat in the storm and the fish (ictus). A prestigious marble sarcophagus carved with 62 biblical characters was found in the Adelphia rotunda. It was supposed to house the body of Adelphia, wife of the proconsul Valerio (4th century). Today this sarcophagus can be seen in the "Paolo Orsi" regional museum in Syracuse. Another rotunda, known as the "cubicle of Eusebius", was set up as a temporary tomb for Pope Eusebius (310 AD) before being transferred to Rome. Like the church on the surface, of which not much remains, the catacombs too have suffered desecration and plunder by many conquerors over the centuries. Back "in the light" do not miss the Byzantine crypt where Saint Marciano was buried, the first bishop of Syracuse who would have founded the first Christian community in the western world in Syracuse. The remains of the pavement, columns and Ionic capitals are visible. The Normans added four marble capitals depicting the Evangelists and splendid frescoes that are still perfectly visible.


Paolo Orsi Archaeological Museum of Syracuse 7)

 The archaeological treasures found in and around Syracuse are almost all kept in the rooms of this small but wonderful museum. Dedicated to Paolo Orsi, an archaeologist who contributed to the discovery of the main archaeological sites in Syracuse, the museum is housed in Villa Landolina in a green area between the Neapolis Archaeological Park and the Catacombs. Paolo Orsi Archaeological Museum In the two floors of the museum, a path winds its way that starts from the Paleolithic and reaches the Greco-Roman Syracuse. In sector A (history and protohistory) the two highlights are the bronze horse (symbol of the museum) and the casts of two dwarf elephants found in the Spinagallo cave in Syracuse. In sector B (Greek colonies) there are the remains of the temple of Athena (now the Cathedral of Syracuse). In sector C (subcolonies of Syracuse) the splendid Kore enthroned found in Grammichele is not to be missed. In sector D which tells the story of Hellenistic Syracuse, the wonderful Venus Landolina or "pudica" who portrays Venus at the moment of birth is worth mentioning. 


Bellomo Palace Museum 8)

 In the heart of Ortigia there is this small but interesting museum that deserves a visit if only for the building that houses it. Of Swabian foundation, the palace was a convent and then owned by the Bellomo family. Since 1948 it has housed the collection of Syracusan and Sicilian works of art from the Byzantine, Arab and Norman eras up to the 18th century Together with Palazzo Orsi (See point 7) it completes the journey through the history of Syracuse art. Bellomo Palace Museum On the ground floor there is a courtyard with family and city coats of arms and some perfectly preserved historic carriages. In the art gallery there is the highlight of the collection: the Annunciation by Antonello da Messina, heavily damaged but which has saved the two most important points: the face of the angel and that of Mary receiving the Annunciation. The Sculptures section is very interesting with works by Gagini, Francesco Laurana and Giovan Battista Mazzolo.


What to eat in Syracuse 9)

With the Mediterranean all around and the Iblei Mountains behind, Syracuse manages to bring sea and land products of extraordinary quality to tables. An abundance that allows an almost infinite freedom of combinations, which the Syracusans have transformed over time into historical dishes but which they do not disdain to update with new flavours. What to eat in Syracuse Let's start with the first courses: fried pasta with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs (anciova and muddica), ravioli filled with fish, cavatelli (cavateddi) with tuna roe and Pachino cherry tomatoes, lolli, a pasta seasoned with meat sauce pork or broad beans (Lolli no Maccu). Among the second courses, fish excels, with tuna alla ghiotta, grouper alla matalotta (olives and capers) and fish soup. Among the main courses of meat there is rabbit fried in a pan (Cunigghiu a' stimpirata) and meatballs (purpetti), accompanied by caponata and various vegetables. In pastry, the almond wins, which here abounds, used for marzipan fruit, biscuits and partly also for giuggiulena (sugar and sesame biscuits). The Syracusan cassata differs from the traditional one in that it is covered in sponge cake instead of the icing and the totò biscuits (lemon or chocolate) and the cuccìa, a spoon dessert made with boiled wheat, sweetened ricotta, candied fruit, almonds and dark chocolate. Among the wines, we mention the 24 DOP of Syracuse including Siracusa and Erolo. 


Beaches and surroundings of Syracuse 10)

 If you visit Syracuse in spring and summer, the temptation to swim in the clear waters of Sicily is inevitable. Beaches and surroundings of Syracuse The easiest way is to go down the steep stairs that lead from the seafront of Ortigia to the beaches below. If you are looking for even clearer water and larger beaches, the Fontane Bianche beach is 16 kilometers away, 3 km of crystalline water which takes its name from the numerous fresh water springs. A little further away (45 km) is the Vendicari reserve with the beach of the same name, a former salt pan and tuna fishery. Still in the reserve there is Calamosche, uncontaminated but it can be reached with a kilometer on foot. In the surroundings of Syracuse, the highly photographed village of Marzamemi with its colorful and picturesque little square is worth a visit. If you love art Noto and the Baroque itinerary is there waiting for you in all its splendour.